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BUILDING THE CYCLIC
The Cyclic started life as a THRUSTMASTER "TOPGUN" Analogue joystick. I chose this sick as the foundation because it is solidly built and more than capable of taking the extra weight of an extension. It also has a really nice grip, 4 buttons and has lots of room inside the base to do the modifications required to turn it into a cyclic. This is the part of the project where all the wiring comes together, so it is a little more involved than the pedals and collective. You will find that the handle is held onto the 1/2" shaft in the base by 5 screws. Undo them, open the handle and cut the wires going from switches through the shaft into the base. The handle will now be separated from the base. Take note of where all the wires go, you will need to remember them later. Flip the base over, and take off the little rubber feet. Under each one is a screw. Take out the screws and the base will separate in half. Inside the base are 2 metal weights that we no longer need, so you can relegate them to the junk box. Here comes the tricky bit. There are not enough wires in the cable supplied with the "TOPGUN" to complete this project. My main aim in this whole concept was that it would be modular, so I decided early on that the pedals and collective would connect to the base of the joystick somehow, thereby requiring no Y cables or other connections. This means that you will need a 15 wire joystick cable. I had one in the junk box from previous projects which came from a Microsoft Sidewinder Analog stick. Refer to the WIRING DIAGRAM and the INSTRUCTIONS to get an idea of what's going on. Make all the connections as described. Inside the base, in the circuit for the collective and pedals, wire in 1/8" RCA phono jacks, and secure them to the top of the base (SEE PICTURE). This is where the pedals and collective will plug in. You will also need to extend the wires that go to the switches. I used telephone wire for this, as it is small and light and easily fits in the extension. I didn't rewire the Top-Hat back in, as it took the the wire needed for the Collective, and I am not sure if there would be a conflict there. I did leave the Top-Hat in the handle though for aesthetic reasons. For the extension, I used 1/2" ID plastic pipe. Its commonly sold as ABS pipe for plumbing. Its connected with 2 x 45 degrees copper plumbing elbows and 5 minute Epoxy.This keeps the weight down, but is very rigid. I made the cyclic so that, when I am flying, it is the perfect height to allow me to rest my wrist on my right thigh and fly with my fingertips. Adjust the measurements till your stick fits you comfortably. The ABS pipe fits over the handle shaft in the base with a little sanding and is secured with epoxy. Run your switch wires up through the extension and into the handle. Solder back onto the appropriate switches. Fitting the handle to the ABS pipe is a little difficult, but with patient sanding of the outside of the pipe and the inside of the handle, all will fit eventually. As usual, secure with epoxy. Now all thats left is to secure the entire cyclic to the same base that holds the pedals.(SEE PICTURE) I drilled 1/4" holes through the base of the cyclic, and corresponding holes in the plywood base. I actually drilled 8 sets of holes in the base, that way I can move the cyclic fore and aft to adjust it so it fits any pilot. I also added a spring to help the "feel" of the cyclic, as well as to keep it from straining the internal springs in the base mechanism. I have included another picture here to give you an idea on the CYCLIC from a side view.
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